Toilet Repair & Installation
Cure a toilet that runs, rocks, leaks or clogs, or install a replacement.
A bidet seat is one of the simplest upgrades in a bathroom, and also one of the easiest to get slightly wrong. A loose connection or a missing outlet turns a good idea into a leak or an extension cord across the floor. Here is what a proper installation covers.
Call and say which kind of bidet you have chosen, or ask which suits your bathroom.
A bidet seat is the most common choice and fits most standard toilets. Some models heat the water or the seat and need a nearby outlet. Others are non-electric and rely on the cold supply, which is simpler but cooler.
A handheld sprayer costs less and takes little room. A standalone bidet gives the full experience but needs space, a hot and cold supply and a drain. Ask the plumber what your bathroom can accommodate.
For a seat, the plumber closes the toilet supply, installs a T-adapter on the valve and connects the bidet's hose. The old seat comes off and the new mounting plate goes on. The connection is checked for leaks under pressure.
A sprayer needs a similar tee and a mounted holder, plus a hose of the right length. A standalone bidet is a bigger project that involves new supply lines, a drain and a vent, and often work in the floor or wall.
The product price is the largest piece for a simple seat. Labor depends on the bathroom.
Ask whether the quote covers the product, the valve and any electrical work.
Cold incoming water is a real thing in Front Range winters, and non-heated bidets can feel it. A heated model or one with a warm-water connection solves that. A nearby outlet is also worth checking before you buy.
Many Louisville homes have older bathrooms with limited outlets and tight spaces beside the toilet. A short visit to measure and look at the supply valve can save a returned product.
Heated bidet seats need a grounded outlet protected by a ground-fault circuit interrupter, and the cord should not run where it could be splashed. If there is no suitable outlet, an electrician must add one. A plumber should not improvise power.
Check whether your model needs a minimum water pressure or a backflow-protected connection. Some local rules require a device that stops dirty water from flowing back toward the supply.
The most common issue is a slow drip at the T-valve from a hand-tightened nut. Leaks at the hose can come from worn washers. A weak spray may mean a clogged nozzle screen, which you can clean with a soft brush.
Use only the cleaners the manufacturer recommends. Harsh chemicals can damage seals and the heater. Turn off the water supply to the bidet if you will be away in freezing weather.
Cure a toilet that runs, rocks, leaks or clogs, or install a replacement.
Stop drips, restore flow, free a stuck stop valve and cure leaks under the vanity.
Swap a shower valve, a tub or the entire shower, with the drain set at the correct height.
Most fit standard round or elongated bowls, but measurements matter. Check the bolt spacing and bowl shape, and tell the plumber the toilet brand.
Only for a heated model without a nearby protected outlet. Non-electric bidets need only plumbing.
Most seat models take cold water from the toilet supply and heat it internally if they are electric. Some can connect to a hot line too.
A seat or sprayer usually takes under an hour. A standalone bidet is a longer plumbing job.
Close the small T-valve or the shutoff behind the toilet and call the line. Most bidet leaks are loose connections that are quick to fix.
Turn the small T-valve or the angle stop behind the toilet and phone the line. Most bidet leaks come from a loose fitting that is quick to tighten, and how much damage occurs depends on how long it ran.
Call and tell the dispatcher which type you want. A local contractor can talk through the install.
Service area centered on Louisville and nearby Boulder County cities.